Renee's Lace Class Scarf

Renee’s Lace Class

Materials:

• 1 skein sock yarn – 100g or more, approx 400 yds.
• US6 needles
• Gram scale (not critical, but helps a lot)
• Crochet hook (comparable to size of needles, but any of the middling sizes will work)
• Small amount of waste yarn

Gauge: not all that important

Abbreviations:

Sts: stitches

K: knit

P: purl

Pattern:

Weigh yarn and record here: _________ g

Provisional Cast-On:

Using crochet hook and waste yarn, chain about 58.

With main yarn, pick up and knit 55 sts in the back loops of the chain.

K 4 rows

Setup row:

K3, p to last 3 sts, k3

Spider stitch chart:

Work rows 1-12 of the chart twice, then work rows 1-6 once more. Red lines indicate the pattern repeat. Grey boxes are not stitches and only exist to separate the garter stitch border from the main pattern.

Even rows are not charted here and are worked: K3, p to last 3 sts, k3

K 6 rows before beginning next section. You should be ready to start a right side row.

Lily of the Valley chart:

Work rows 1-14 of the chart twice. Even rows ARE charted here.

K 5 rows.

Increase row:

*K2, kf&b* 18 times, end k1 (73 sts).

You should be ready to start a right side row.

Edge Chart:

Work rows 1-15 of the chart once (do NOT work a row 16, there isn’t one). Again, red lines indicate the pattern repeat. Even rows are not charted and are always purled (no garter stitch border anymore).

Bind off loosely as follows: K2, *transfer two stitches back to the left needle, k2tog through the back loop, k1*, repeat between stars to end.

Weigh and record remaining yarn: _________ g

Original weight minus remaining yarn: __________ g

Add 2 or 3 g for safety: _________ g

This is how much it took to make one edge of the scarf. You need to leave this much leftover to do the other edge. You’ll end up knitting the middle section until you have this much left.

Unravel crochet chain while you retrieve sts from provisional cast-on. (55 sts) You should have the right side facing you, so you may need to shift everything to another needle to get that to work.

Join new yarn (well... you don't really join to anything. Just grab more scarf yarn and get ready to knit). If you're knitting from something like Noro Kureyon Sock, you'll want to start from the opposite end of the ball to keep the stripe pattern consistent. When you start knitting, your old tail from your original cast-on should be on the opposite side of the scarf.

K3 rows.

Next row: K3, p to last 3 sts, k3

Small Arrow Pattern:

Work chart as many times as desired or until you have as many grams left as calculated above.

Even rows are not charted here and are worked: K3, p to last 3 sts, k3

K 6 rows.

Go back to the beginning where it says “Setup row” and repeat entire pattern to the bind-off.

Block. Weave in ends.

Pattern copyright Renee Strouts, 2009. All charts made using chartGen from Orangellous.com

Raindrop Shawl Pattern

I started this blog for the purpose of posting patterns, so here goes with the first one. The idea of this shawl was to use every bit I could of a 100g ball of fingering weight, and then finish the edging with some fabulous Koigu. I had been looking for a raindrop pattern for some time, and was utterly unable to find one. So I made one up, and here it is for you, too.


Raindrop Shawl

Design by Renee Strouts

Size US 6 circular needles

MC: 1 skein Rio De La Plata Solid Sock (100g/437yds.)
CC: 1 skein KPPPM (50g/175yds.)

Gauge: less relevant.

For laceweight yarn, use US 4 needles.

Abbreviations

MC: Main color

CC: Contrast color

Sts: stitches

K: knit

P: purl

Yo: yarn over

K2tog: knit two stitches together

Ssk: slip two stitches separately knit-wise, insert left needle into the back of the stitches and knit them together

Center k3: slip two stitches together knit-wise, k 1, pass slipped stitches together over the k 1

Center p3: slip one purl-wise, slip two stitches separately knit-wise, transfer the two knit-wise stitches back to the left needle, purl two together through the back loops, pass slipped stitch over

Pattern

Using MC, CO 5 sts.

Row 1 (RS): K2, yo, k1, yo, k2
Row 2 (WS): K2, p3, k2

Work Chart A one time.
Work Chart B 9 times or until you become bored or happy.
Break MC, join CC.
Work Chart C one time, stopping after row 13 (do not work an even row).

Bind off loosely as follows: K2, *transfer two stitches back to the left needle, k2tog through the back loop, k1*, repeat between stars to end.

Block vigorously. Weave in ends. Wear.

How to work the charts

Begin at the bottom & work upward.

Odd chart rows: K2, work next row of chart from right to left, k1 (this is your center stitch), work same row of chart a second time from right to left, k2.

The repeat is outlined in red.

Even chart rows (EXCEPT FOR THE PINK ROW) are NOT included in the chart. Normal even rows are worked: K2, p to last 2 sts, k2

The pink row is worked: k2, work pink row of chart from left to right, p1 (this is the center stitch), work pink row again from left to right, k2

Please note! It is very easy to get into the rhythm of always purling the even rows. Please pay attention to the chart, as I myself spent far too much time cursing at and un-knitting the pink row when I forgot.

Charts (click for bigger):

Please let me know if you find any problems with the pattern, I'll try to fix them as soon as possible. Enjoy!